Castles in the sky
I've recently returned from Italy where I have been researching locations for a new book - set in the 14th century. An old paddle steamer took me across Lake Garda to Malcesine where I thought I'd take a day off from the toil of drinking espresso and eating everything delicious my gracious Italian hosts put in front of me. I hadn't intended to go all the way to the top - but how could anyone resist the mountains on such a glorious day? Monte Baldo is 1760 metres high, so not exactly Everest, but the air up there was magic - and there was also a restaurant serving espresso and ...
Part of my trip took me through Verona, a wonderful city - a place I intend to return - though I avoided the Romeo & Juliet balcony. It's all a bit too phoney,whereas the castles I visited were the real thing. The one here, Castello Scaligero, is at Malcesine on Lake Garda. The Lombards built it in the middle of the lst millennium and after many attacks over the years it eventually fell into the hands of the Hungarians. In the mid-13th century it came under the control of Alberto Della Scala - hence its name. Its sheer rock down to the lake, battlements that seem unscaleable and layers of defensive walls, must have made it a nightmare to attack.
I climbed up through the tower - and just as I got there the huge bell chimed. I did my Quasimodo impression (and there are those who say it was a bit too close to reality) and imagined the bell sounding the alarm across the surrounding landscape in those centuries of war. An amazing place. Can't wait to go back. Great country, wonderful people ... and the food - like the castle - to die for.
